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From 'Journey to Andalusia', BunchpressMSS 2004, 33pps, 52 illustrations, moorish binding, Ist edition, (rare)

cordobagardens
Helped by the generosity of many of Christine's friends, we set off for Spain with hopes of wondrous discoveries. As I write, late on Easter Day, we have not so far been disappointed. Is it possible to see so much in so short a time? Could we have chosen a better weekend to arrive in Seville in the heart of Andalusia? Go nowhere else for Easter. Seville is where you must be.
Air Iberia is not a very comfortable airline but the Saturday edition of
The Daily Telegraph proved to be the perfect companion for our flight. AN Wilson's article on Easter was the best prelude possible for what was to come, compensating richly for the dearth of refreshments on board.
We flew over olive tree-covered hills and down to a rich terracotta soil. ...We are often told of the special light along the Seine at Bougival that inspired the Impressionists; but the light down south is something else.
After the stress and hassle of Orly, Seville airport was a haven of peace. We were met by a lovely hostess whose trilingualism was as good as mine, and we set off for the centre in a rented Fiat Punto...
We wasted no time changing  and left for the centre taking the no. 34 bus from outside the Real Betis stadium where to our surprise the queue was already long. Everybody, from grandparents to the grandwhildren , was dressed in their Sunday best, or what seemed their Sunday best. We discovered that, in Seville, everybody is smartly dressed all of the time; nevertheless this week was a special occasion and the bus was packed.
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...The procession approached the Cathedral and we entered a world of mystery and wonder that was to last for the rest of the evening. Afar off, we could see them coming towards us. Slowly, the black hooded brothers carrying torches, swaying left and right. And behind them, almost rocking sise to side and progressing step by step, the huge ornate platforms edging forward to the rhythm of their brass and drum bands. Badang, boboum, thud! Baada boom, badaadadada boum boum! bang!. a Spanish band that Bizet must have heard. There was no need for him to write much of the opera. It was already there in the streets of Seville. Dadaa! bang....
Above the procession, the balconies were draped in red and yellow velvet and solemn Savillians looked down on the seated Virgin with the crucified Christ across her lap. Behind us, another brotherhood arrived, this time with white hoods, leading Mary, kneeling before Christ on the cross. Its captain called a halt and the platform was lowered to the ground.  It was then that I saw how it was transported for, from underneath crawled the exhausted carriers with their special head dresses, which protect their necks from the weight.
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